One of the secrets of Nuwara Eliya is the grave of Major Rogers - or rather, the search for this legendary grave. Contrary to many assumptions, it is not in the town's main cemetery. I can tell you that it took us quite a bit of research and several conversations with the locals to actually find the cursed grave of the infamous elephant hunter.
At Nuwara Eliya's main cemetery, you will actually find many graves of English people who lived and died here in colonial times. These gravestones tell their own stories and offer a fascinating insight into the past. We initially expected to find Rogers' grave among these old gravestones, but even after a thorough search and a good look around the cemetery, we didn't find it. Instead, we learned from an elderly man that the grave is actually on the edge of the golf course - in a place you would hardly expect.
Finally, another friendly local led us straight there, with a slightly mischievous grin that probably meant: "You're not the first to look." There it was, hidden at the edge of the golf course. The inconspicuous grave that so many legends surround.
Under the spell of the elephant hunter: the dark legend of Major Thomas William Rogers
Nuwara Eliya. The sun fights its way through the mist that lies like a veil over the lush green hills. It is peaceful here, but a mysterious feeling pervades the air. An inconspicuous gravestone at the edge of the square holds the dark story of a man whose name is deeply etched in Sri Lanka's collective memory - Major Thomas William Rogers, the elephant hunter.
The locals talk about him with a shudder in their voices, and perhaps you can't blame them. Rogers, a British government official and passionate hunter, is said to have killed more than 1,400 elephants in the course of his life. These majestic animals, which are considered sacred in Sri Lanka and have a close connection to the country's culture and spirituality, were nothing more than prey for him. But his deeds did not go unpunished, at least that is what the local people believe.
This is where the legend begins: It is said that lightning strikes Rogers' grave again and again, as if nature itself is taking revenge on him. This legend lends Nuwara Eliya a mystical aura that captivates tourists and locals alike.
But who was this man who left such a scar on Sri Lanka's history with his hunting expeditions? And why does his story remain a reminder and a mystery to this day?
The colonial era in Sri Lanka and elephant hunting
To really understand the story of Major Thomas William Rogers, you have to delve deep into Sri Lanka's colonial era. Imagine we are in the 19th century. Sri Lanka, then still Ceylon, is under British rule. The colonial rulers see the country not just as an exotic adventure, but as a rich resource. The elephant hunt becomes a dark chapter in this story.
Back then, elephant hunting was not only a sport for the British, but also proof of their supposed superiority over nature. Elephants were considered powerful animals - whoever defeated them demonstrated that they were masters of the wilderness. For Rogers and many other colonial officials, hunting became a kind of competition. The locals, however, saw nothing heroic in Rogers. He became the enemy of nature, shooting countless animals without regard for the spiritual and cultural significance of elephants in the country.
Elephants have been closely interwoven with Sri Lankan history and culture for centuries. They were used as valuable helpers in agriculture and are deeply rooted in religious symbolism. Especially during the famous Esala Perahera festival in Kandy, elephants parade through the streets, magnificently decorated and carrying holy relics to bring blessings to the faithful. The slaughter of these animals by the colonial rulers was therefore not only an environmental destruction, but also an attack on the identity and spirituality of the population.
Who was Major Thomas William Rogers?
Thomas William Rogers came to Ceylon as a young officer, where he was stationed in Badulla. The exotic surroundings and the wilderness of the jungle provided him with a hunting ground that captivated him. Rogers, who had influence and power as a government commissioner, began to hunt elephants with a real obsession. For him, it was more than just a hobby - elephant hunting became his life's work.
He kept meticulous lists of his hunting successes and made no secret of his hunting addiction. Over 1,400 elephants are said to have fallen victim to him. The locals were appalled by his cruelty and condemned him as a "man who killed elephants". For the British, on the other hand, he became a symbol of colonial rule over nature, who often praised his actions as courage and strength. Rogers seemed to feel no remorse. There was something ruthless about his hunting instinct, which also deeply disturbed the local population.
Even during his lifetime, many locals believed that he would not find peace in death. This gave rise to the legend of the "curse" of the elephant hunter that would haunt his grave.
The deeds and the legend: 1,400 elephants killed in his lifetime
Rogers' hunting expeditions were not only cruel, they also had a lasting impact on the elephant population and the ecological balance in Sri Lanka. The British colonial rulers often saw elephants only as "big game", but the animals played a central role in Sri Lanka's natural ecosystem. They opened paths in the jungle, spread seeds and created habitats for numerous animal species. Rogers' unbridled hunting led to the extinction of elephant herds in some areas and the ecosystem was severely disrupted.
The locals despised Rogers for his destructiveness. In the villages, people talked about him with a certain shudder. Rogers was more than a simple hunter - he was the "elephant killer" who disregarded the people's spiritual connection to nature. This anger and grief gave rise to the dark legend of the "cursed" grave: after his death, it is said that lightning repeatedly struck Rogers' gravestone. For the people, this was a sign of divine wrath or a revenge of nature itself.
The curse became a symbol of the destructive force that Rogers had unleashed and at the same time a reminder that nature was exacting its revenge. This mystical notion persists to this day and attracts many curious visitors.
Major Rogers' grave: a controversial place of remembrance
Rogers' grave on the Nuwara Eliya golf course is a controversial site today. Many locals find the idea that a memorial site is dedicated to him inappropriate. For them, the grave is not a place of respect, but a reminder of the colonial era and its ruthlessness. Others, on the other hand, see it as a chilling reminder - a warning that those who harm nature will not find peace even in death.
The history of the tomb and the alleged "curse" give the place a special fascination. Some visitors make the long journey to Nuwara Eliya just to see the cursed stone up close. But it remains a quiet observation, as the place is protected by the locals, who regard it with respect and reverence. The legend of the cursed grave lives on, and the site has become a kind of memorial to the colonial crimes against nature.
Moral and cultural dimensions: Elephant hunting then and now
The story of Rogers and his actions make us reflect on how ethical views towards nature have changed over time. While hunting was seen as brave and manly in colonial times, today we see the horror in it. The former hero worship has given way to the realization that nature is not meant for unlimited exploitation.
For the locals, Rogers is still a symbol of a man who not only violated elephants, but also the culture and spirituality of their country. His story reminds us that nature demands respect and does not tolerate reckless destruction. This idea has prevailed in modern Sri Lanka: elephants are protected and organizations such as the Sri Lanka Wildlife Conservation Society are committed to their preservation.
For the people of Sri Lanka, the curse of the elephant hunter is also a symbol of the fact that nature has the power to punish those who harm it.
Nuwara Eliya today: A visit in the footsteps of the elephant hunter
Nuwara Eliya is now a popular tourist destination that captivates visitors with its tea plantations and colonial architecture. A walk through this idyllic mountain town will take you to the roots of the legend of Rogers. The golf course where his grave stands is an attraction for history buffs and brings the past to life.
Some practical tips: The best time to visit Nuwara Eliya is from February to April, when the climate is mild and nature is in full bloom. The golf course and Rogers' grave are not directly accessible, but can be seen from a distance. Pack weatherproof clothing, as the climate up here is changeable and often cool.
A visit to the tea plantations rounds off your stay. Here you will learn a lot about tea production and the long colonial history that has shaped Sri Lanka. The gently rolling, mist-covered hills of the tea plantations provide a peaceful backdrop - a relief after the gloomy story of the elephant hunter.
Eternal memory and the lessons of history
The story of Major Rogers and the myth of his cursed grave are a reminder that man must respect nature. In Sri Lanka, where elephants are now considered symbols of national identity and cultural heritage, the story of the elephant hunter is a memorial. It reminds us that nature is irreplaceable and precious and that every action has consequences.
For the people of Sri Lanka and visitors exploring the traces of the past in Nuwara Eliya, Rogers' story is a call for mindfulness and responsibility. Nature demands respect, and this insight is important for all travelers who want to discover the wild beauty of Sri Lanka.
Who looks after the graves in the cemetery?
In Nuwara Eliya, especially in the main cemetery, the old graves dating back to colonial times are often maintained by the local administration or by church institutions if these graves are protected as monuments. However, there are many gravesites that are more left to the weather and the passage of time, and some graves are gradually deteriorating. Occasionally, local groups or voluntary organizations take care of the preservation of particularly historic graves in order to preserve cultural heritage.
Major Rogers' grave on the edge of the golf course is maintained by the golf course itself, as it is located on its grounds. Although the grave site is maintained, it is not specially marked or signposted, which contributes to the mysterious and almost hidden character of the place.
Why are the graves maintained at all if the occupying forces brought so much suffering to the country?
The maintenance of the graves of British colonial masters and their relatives by the Sinhalese may seem surprising at first glance, especially in view of the suffering that the colonial era brought to the country. However, in Sri Lanka and many other countries with a colonial past, the care of these graves is often an expression of a respectful attitude towards history and the repose of the dead, regardless of who lies there.
For the Sinhalese, it is not so much a tribute to the colonial rulers as an expression of respect for the past and traditions. The Buddhist and Hindu culture that characterizes the country places great value on compassion and respect for the deceased. For many, the need to preserve places of peace and remembrance is part of a harmonious approach to the past, even if it was painful.
At the same time, many historical cemeteries and colonial graves are now also part of the cultural heritage and tourist attractions that preserve Sri Lanka's complex history and make it visible for future generations. The maintenance of these graves is therefore also part of the identity and a silent testimony to how the country shows dignity and serenity in dealing with its past.
1. what do young Sinhalese today think about the colonial era and its traces, such as the preserved graves?
Opinions are mixed. Many young Sinhalese are critical of the colonial era, as they know that the country was heavily exploited at the time. Nevertheless, they recognize that things like the railroads or tea cultivation were introduced by the British and still shape the country today. They see the old graves and monuments more as "memories" and less as "tributes". For most, tending these graves is simply a matter of respect - regardless of who lies there.
2. are there special rituals or festivals in which the historical cemeteries and graves in Sri Lanka also play a role?
Not really. The cemeteries and colonial graves have no fixed place in the spiritual life of the Sinhalese, and there are no special rituals or ceremonies centered on these sites. The festivities and ceremonies mostly revolve around ancestor worship and their own religion rather than the colonial period.
3. how has the relationship of the Sinhalese to the remnants of the colonial era, such as cemeteries and monuments, changed over the years?
Immediately after independence, the Sinhalese were often critical of these remnants and wanted to distance themselves from them. Today, they are seen more as part of the historical heritage and are perceived with a certain distance. The graves and monuments of the colonial era have long been part of history and are accepted as evidence of the past that shaped the country.
4. how do the local authorities or historical institutions view the maintenance and preservation of such historical graves?
For the authorities and historical institutions, these graves often have a certain historical and touristic value. They are aware that tourists are curious about the traces of the colonial era. Maintaining such sites not only brings in money, but also helps to keep history alive and allow visitors to experience it.
5. is Major Rogers' grave actively used as part of a historical tour or narrative in Nuwara Eliya, or is it more of an "insider tip"?
Rogers' grave is more of an "insider tip". It is not part of an official tour, but the legend is well known among the locals and many tourists hear about it through conversation. It is a place that is more likely to be discovered by word of mouth than through official guided tours - and this naturally gives the tomb a special fascination.
6. are there certain Buddhist or Hindu teachings that influence the care and respect for the graves of colonizers?
Yes, absolutely. Both Buddhism and Hinduism place great emphasis on compassion and respect for all living beings and the dead, no matter who they were when they were alive. The locals often see it as an expression of tolerance and compassion to take respectful care of the graves, regardless of who is buried there. Even old graves of colonial rulers are therefore cared for - a spiritual approach rather than a historical or political one.
7 How do the locals react to the interest of international visitors in these old colonial graves?
The locals generally react positively to this. Many find it nice that international visitors are interested in their history. Especially in areas like Nuwara Eliya, which are heavily influenced by the colonial era, people are used to tourists asking questions about history and are often proud to share their perspective.
8. are there similar 'cursed' graves or legends in other parts of Sri Lanka that are reminiscent of the colonial era?
Yes, there are some places in Sri Lanka that are considered "cursed" or "haunted" and date back to colonial times. For example, in cities like Colombo and Galle there are colonial houses and plantation villas that are believed to have supernatural stories. These legends persist in many areas where the colonial rulers were active and often add an air of mystery to the story.
9. what other historical remains from the colonial era are still preserved in the country, and how are they maintained or used?
There are many colonial buildings and infrastructure from the British era, such as the Galle fort, the old railroads and plantation houses. These places are often maintained as places of interest and sometimes also serve tourist purposes. The Galle Fort, for example, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts many visitors every year, while the train routes from Kandy to Ella have become a popular travel route offering breathtaking views.
10. are there plans to protect the old graves in a wider cultural context, for example through a special museum exhibition or guided tours?
At the moment, there are no national plans to specifically include colonial tombs in museums or guided tours. Some tour operators offer private tours in places like Galle or Kandy that focus on colonial heritage. There could be more initiatives in the future to place such sites in a wider historical context - especially as more and more people discover an interest in Sri Lanka's complex history.
