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Culinary influences from around the world
What is known today as Sri Lankan cuisine is the result of centuries of fusing local dishes with the recipes and products brought to the island by colonialists, traders and immigrants.
There is not only the obvious influence from the South Indian regions of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, which are only separated from the north of Sri Lanka by the approximately 55-kilometre-wide strait, but the former colonial powers of the Netherlands, Great Britain and Portugal also brought parts of their native cuisine to the island.
Other influences came from immigrants from Arab countries and Malaysia.
The result is known today as Sinhalese or Ceylonese cuisine, as Sri Lanka was still called Ceylon under British rule.
At first glance, the curries in particular are reminiscent of those from the Indian subcontinent, but on closer inspection they are very different: the combinations of different spices and flavors are more varied, for example bitter melon and spicy coconut, and also thinner and less creamy than Indian curries.
The numerous and varied desserts that you will find in Sri Lanka were largely brought over or influenced by the Dutch and Portuguese, as sweets play a major role in local traditions.
It is striking that many of the ingredients used are not at all native to Sri Lanka. As is often the case in island states, many spices and plants, including the chili, were brought by traders from all over the world and then found their way into the country's kitchens. Before the chili plant came to Sri Lanka in this way, it was the local black pepper that provided the spiciness.
When it comes to vegetables, the British influence is particularly noticeable, as the British were responsible for the creation of curries with potatoes, pumpkin, beet, eggplants and carrots, for example.
The most important building blocks of local cuisine
If there are two ingredients that no meal in Sri Lanka should be without, it is rice and coconut. No other ingredients characterize the country's cuisine as much as these.
More than 15 different varieties of rice are grown in Sri Lanka. It finds its way into almost every dish in a wide variety of preparations and serves as a balance to the often hot and intensely spiced curries and sambals.
Coconut is used both in the form of coconut milk and shredded coconut.
The local chefs also like to use a variety of spices, which are imaginatively combined with each other to create the unique taste of Sri Lankan dishes. You should definitely stroll through one of the many markets at least once and be enchanted by the aroma of the many fresh spices.
A good curry spice mix is usually made by blending coriander, cardamom, cumin, fenugreek, mustard seeds, cloves and various herbs and then mixing them with garlic, ginger, turmeric and cinnamon.
Fresh curry and pandan leaves are also a must. You will find the edible curry leaves in almost every dish and learn to love their unmistakable taste.
The spiciness is then determined by the amount of chili that is added. Although the chili, as mentioned above, is not native to Sri Lanka, over 60 different types of chili are now cultivated in Sri Lanka and are used in fresh, dried or fried form in the country's typical dishes. Sri Lanka's cuisine is one of the spiciest in the world and the locals love their food so hot that it is almost inedible for our European taste buds. However, restaurants that serve many tourists usually adjust the spiciness of their dishes to suit them. If in doubt, simply tell them how spicy you can tolerate your food when you order.
The cinnamon used in Sri Lanka is Ceylon cinnamon, which is native to the country and also gave the island its former name. Ceylon cinnamon is significantly spicier and has a more intense flavor than the more common Cassia cinnamon.
Cardamom is also grown in Sri Lanka. However, the fact that each cardamom pod has to be harvested by hand, making it one of the three most expensive spices in the world.
As an island nation, fishing not only plays an important economic role, but fish also ends up on Sri Lankan plates in many different forms. You will always find freshly caught fish from the Indian Ocean in the markets. This is then often processed into fish curry. Maldives fish, which is a dried and shredded version of bonito tuna, is often used as a flavor enhancer.
The most commonly used meat in Sri Lankan cuisine is by far chicken. Otherwise, the island's abundant fruit and vegetables are always an important part of local dishes.
Also popular and widespread is the "curd" typical of Sri Lanka and India, which is a yoghurt made from buffalo milk and is not really comparable to the yoghurt we are familiar with. Mixed pickles, which are pickled vegetables, are also often served as a side dish.
Fruits in Sri Lanka
As a tropical country, the island in the Indian Ocean is incredibly rich in a wide variety of fruits. We have never heard of many of them in Europe, let alone tasted them.
The most typical fruits in Sri Lanka include not only the common varieties of coconut, avocado, mango, pineapple, guava and papaya, but also specialties such as the cashew apple, carambole, breadfruit (which is often neglected alongside its better-known brother jackfruit) and woodapple.
If you ask for bananas at the market, the first question will be: which ones? Sri Lanka has more than thirty different types of small bananas. Particularly recommended is the pleasantly sour-tasting lemon banana or the red banana, which tastes more savory and less sweet.
Sri Lankans are particularly proud of their King Coconut - the king of drinking coconuts - which has been cultivated for centuries.
Although it has comparatively little flesh, it has all the more flavorful and extremely healthy coconut water.
You can find the King Coconut at almost every fruit vendor, which are widespread on the streets of the country. They are elongated and yellow to reddish in color.
You can also sample the many fruits in liquid form at the many juice stands. Juice merchants prepare a wide variety of fresh creations for you. You should definitely try a Woodapple juice, which you will never find at home.
If you are looking for fruit and vegetables at the market, be sure to ask the seller when the fruit is ready to eat.
They will give you reliable information on whether you should eat them straight away or wait a little longer.
This will ensure you get the best taste experience and a freshness that you can only dream of in German supermarkets. As a rule, seasonal fruit and vegetables in Sri Lanka are only available when they are in season.
So if you can't find avocados or mangoes, you're unfortunately traveling at the wrong time.
Sri Lankan cuisine for vegetarians
As Sri Lanka is home to a not insignificant minority of Hindus, most of whom eat vegetarian food, vegetarians have a comparatively easy time here.
Most of the locals understand that you don't need to eat meat or fish and there is a large selection of varied vegetarian curries and dishes.
If in doubt, ask if no dried Maldivian fish has been used in the preparation, which is often the case with onion sambal and some pastries at street stalls, for example.
In Sri Lanka, egg is often considered non-vegetarian - if you eat egg, it's best to say when you ask that it's ok and that you're only interested in meat or fish.
Table manners in Sri Lanka
If you not only want to try typical Sri Lankan dishes, but also eat them in the traditional way, then wash your hands - because in Sri Lanka, people eat with their fingers.
Traditionally, you only use your right hand, as the left hand is considered unclean and stays under the table.
You mix your rice and curry and form small balls with your thumb, index and middle fingers, which you then push into your mouth with your thumb over the other two fingers. This will feel a little strange the first few times you try it, but it won't take long before you get the hang of it.
Not only are the locals happy to see you eating food their way, but you'll also realize how much fun this way of eating is and how much closer you feel to what you're eating.
Many people also claim that the flavor is much more intense when you're with your fingers - so it's definitely worth a try!
And don't worry, if the whole thing isn't your cup of tea, cutlery is also served in every restaurant.
Sweets in Sri Lanka
As already mentioned at the beginning, there is a large selection of desserts in Sri Lanka thanks to the Portuguese and the Dutch. However, these are generally much sweeter and stickier than here.
A particularly common dessert is watallapan, which is a kind of airy flan made from coconut, raisins, palm sugar and chopped nuts.
Kiribath is a square-shaped rice prepared with coconut milk and served in a sweet version with palm sugar at festivals or for breakfast. The small oil cakes kavun and halapa are also widespread: red millet (kurakkan) is mixed with wheat flour, coconut flour and palm sugar, wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed.
At the numerous markets, you will find a large selection of packaged sweets, where the influence of other cultures is once again particularly evident. Indian sweets as well as British cakes and fudge toffees are on offer.
Also popular with locals and visitors alike are the Hawaiian cookies from the Munchees brand, which are speculoos-like cookies with coconut and an addictive taste. Unfortunately, these have not yet made it beyond Sri Lanka's borders, so make sure you stock up before you leave!
Alcohol in Sri Lanka
Alcohol is comparatively expensive in Sri Lanka and yet widespread.
The only liquor produced on the island is Arrack, which is made from the nectar of the coconut palm blossom. Sri Lanka is the world's largest producer of this spirit and you will therefore find it frequently on the island.
Toddy, which is fermented palm blossom nectar, contains considerably less alcohol. To try this specialty, however, you will have to ask the locals as it is not officially sold in the stores.
The most common local beer is the lager Lions Beer, followed by the strong beer Anchor Strong. Imported beers are rarely found and when they are, they are significantly more expensive than the local beers.
Once a month, on the occasion of the full moon, Sri Lanka celebrates Poya Day, a public holiday on which no alcohol may be sold anywhere in the country.
Ceylon tea
Although Sri Lanka is one of the world's leading tea producers, tea enjoyment is not a particularly high priority for the locals.
However, you can still find very high-quality tea on tea plantations or in tea factories with their own café.
The typical milk tea is served in almost every café or restaurant in the country.
Black tea is mixed with lots of sugar and milk powder.
If you don't like drinking very sweet tea, it's best to ask if you can have the tea unsweetened - some waiters may be surprised for a moment, but will usually comply with your request.
Some locals like to drink their tea, which for them can steep for a very long time, by first taking a bite from a piece of pure palm sugar and then drinking a sip of tea afterwards.